The difference between practical hunt and training
First of all, when we hunt we dont hunt in a pond. We don´t hunt much in a field, we are in situations with game birds that fly by, and if shot at they will not chose to fly that way again. If they see skin or anything that is shiny or glimmering, thy will make a turn and we will not be able to shoot. we can not wear white gloves or carry small pieces of paper to dirrect our dogs with. We will have covered our faces. And we will most likely be hiding.
So when we train, we train with the goal to make them safe and sure about our commands. We wish to make them able to take direktions, but probably not be able to make eye contact or even see us. The distance might not be long, but the wind can make the bird drifting quickly. So if the dog goes out and are close to the bird, it must stay out there and continue to work. Comming in and start over is not an option. If the dog is not sure about if it is the right object to pick up, the word fetch must be meaning gripping, and the dog shall grip because we ask them to.
So when we train, we train with the goal to make them safe and sure about our commands. We wish to make them able to take direktions, but probably not be able to make eye contact or even see us. The distance might not be long, but the wind can make the bird drifting quickly. So if the dog goes out and are close to the bird, it must stay out there and continue to work. Comming in and start over is not an option. If the dog is not sure about if it is the right object to pick up, the word fetch must be meaning gripping, and the dog shall grip because we ask them to.
RetrievIng
We have divided out retrieving training into a several smaller bits. Our subsections can be named Summoning, Fetching or To command a subject, Directing, Search and Retrieve. This part will be about fetching.
Fetching or how to command a subject
When you want to practice for example retrieve, track, report or search with your dog, the dog must lift a scertain object and bring it to you and then leave it in your hand. All dogs do not lift spontaniously, some do not like to carry, others are chewing on objects and many are reluctant to leave them. The easiest way , by our opinoin, is to teach your dog all this is by starting with a treat-filled sock that you made knots on, the favorite toy if it is easy to lift or maybe a roedeer-leg.
Add the object on the floor in a small room where you are alone with the dog, and nothing can disturb, provide yourself with lots of good candy, meatballs is our favourite thing. As soon as the dog approaches the object you throw a piece of candy to it. When it understood that it is the object that is the trigger to get the candy, you increase the requirements and to get the treat it must sniff at the object. Work then so in two - three days.
Then you increase the requirements, the need to open your mouth to the object for you to throw / give the treat, then required to take the object in the mouth, is next to the lift. Start to introduce the word that you intend to use to get the dog to the fetching like "Retrive" ”Fetch” or something similar. I use the word Apport as a praise. As soon as the dog lifts the object I call Apport. I say the word the same way I do when the dog is fully trained, like: good fetch, Lovely fetch, Great Fetch. Once the dog knows that it is lifting properly that you want it to do, you can start using the word befor dog grasps the object. You say the word, then you´re quiet until the dog lifts the object, it may thus have to figure out that the word means to get the meatballs.
Then over to the first difficulty, to make the dog carry it to you, you start to throw candy you closer and closer to you. The need to carry it up to you to get the treat.
Then comes the hardest step, the dog must add the object to your the one hand to get to the treat in the other. You can usefully show the dog that you have candy and so urge it to retrieve the object to get the treat.
The next step is to vary the objects the dog to retrieve. Then you start to hide the object in the room, decrease the number of objects, and the you continue with going outdoors and still without interference, and eventually you practice with disorder. This work can take extremely long time, up to one year, but to us it has been a sure way to get the dog to want to pick up, carry and leave the things to you!
The word Fetch or Retrieve should translate to ”carry” and nothing else when you are finished!
Now, if the dog you work with is happy to lift and carry the object but do not want to give it away tha is not a problem, you just praise while the dog is carrying and if it puts the object down, you just go silent. Or if it starts chewing on it, then you just go out of the room and leave it. This way, you get the to understand that the fun stops when not carrying, and taht it's just carrying you want. With these dogs you will be able to go faster to the final exercise, the dog shall force the object on to you to be praised / or get candy. You do not want the object, it must force it on you and squeezed in to your hand, for the dog to get treat / reward.
For us this has been a good way of "not wanting the object" especially with soft or joggning dogs, if you do not want it we have experiencing the soft dog not think of you as a threat, and the hogger stops to think of you as a competitor - they must want to be rid of the subject to get the reward, that way we avoid soft dogs that drop far away from you or the hogger that try to hide it!
When you want to practice for example retrieve, track, report or search with your dog, the dog must lift a scertain object and bring it to you and then leave it in your hand. All dogs do not lift spontaniously, some do not like to carry, others are chewing on objects and many are reluctant to leave them. The easiest way , by our opinoin, is to teach your dog all this is by starting with a treat-filled sock that you made knots on, the favorite toy if it is easy to lift or maybe a roedeer-leg.
Add the object on the floor in a small room where you are alone with the dog, and nothing can disturb, provide yourself with lots of good candy, meatballs is our favourite thing. As soon as the dog approaches the object you throw a piece of candy to it. When it understood that it is the object that is the trigger to get the candy, you increase the requirements and to get the treat it must sniff at the object. Work then so in two - three days.
Then you increase the requirements, the need to open your mouth to the object for you to throw / give the treat, then required to take the object in the mouth, is next to the lift. Start to introduce the word that you intend to use to get the dog to the fetching like "Retrive" ”Fetch” or something similar. I use the word Apport as a praise. As soon as the dog lifts the object I call Apport. I say the word the same way I do when the dog is fully trained, like: good fetch, Lovely fetch, Great Fetch. Once the dog knows that it is lifting properly that you want it to do, you can start using the word befor dog grasps the object. You say the word, then you´re quiet until the dog lifts the object, it may thus have to figure out that the word means to get the meatballs.
Then over to the first difficulty, to make the dog carry it to you, you start to throw candy you closer and closer to you. The need to carry it up to you to get the treat.
Then comes the hardest step, the dog must add the object to your the one hand to get to the treat in the other. You can usefully show the dog that you have candy and so urge it to retrieve the object to get the treat.
The next step is to vary the objects the dog to retrieve. Then you start to hide the object in the room, decrease the number of objects, and the you continue with going outdoors and still without interference, and eventually you practice with disorder. This work can take extremely long time, up to one year, but to us it has been a sure way to get the dog to want to pick up, carry and leave the things to you!
The word Fetch or Retrieve should translate to ”carry” and nothing else when you are finished!
Now, if the dog you work with is happy to lift and carry the object but do not want to give it away tha is not a problem, you just praise while the dog is carrying and if it puts the object down, you just go silent. Or if it starts chewing on it, then you just go out of the room and leave it. This way, you get the to understand that the fun stops when not carrying, and taht it's just carrying you want. With these dogs you will be able to go faster to the final exercise, the dog shall force the object on to you to be praised / or get candy. You do not want the object, it must force it on you and squeezed in to your hand, for the dog to get treat / reward.
For us this has been a good way of "not wanting the object" especially with soft or joggning dogs, if you do not want it we have experiencing the soft dog not think of you as a threat, and the hogger stops to think of you as a competitor - they must want to be rid of the subject to get the reward, that way we avoid soft dogs that drop far away from you or the hogger that try to hide it!
TRAINING TAKES PATIENCE AND TIME, SO TAKE A DEEP BREATH AND RELAX - THERE´S NO POINT IN DOING IT IF YOU AREN´T IN THE RIGHT STATE OF MInd...
The basics
To succeed in your training there are small things to allways keep in mind:
1. First of all exercise in short sessions, better little and often than long and infrequent. 2-5 minutes, 2-4 times per day is good. That´s a rule not just for puppies it also applies to the adult dog!
2. Take it easy, one shall always be ready to take both one and two steps backwards in training!
3. The dog never ever fails! If the dog doesn´t do what you wish it to or ask for, you have probably rushed too fast and you must start over.
4. Plan your training so that the dog allways will succeed. Make it super easy and you will be able to prise your dog, and by be able to show appreciation and reward it you make your dog more willing to learn and both of you will feel more positive and looking forward to the next session.
5. Your dog should be as eager and happy when leaving the session as it was to go there. It doesn´t matter wether it´s muscle build up or brain exercises - make it short and often and repeat - that´s the way to do it. Think of how you your self learn the best way? Is it by doing it in short parts and doing it correct or by long exhausting lessons and were you get to know what you do wrong?
6. Never hesitate, correct immediately, do not stand and think for a moment. To be able to correct your dog, you have to have a game plan for your training and every move in small bits and parts.
7. Be consistent and make sure that your orders are always accompanied. If you dog are allowed to ignore/fail once - it will interpret that your commands does not always have to be obeyed.
8. Use the same signals and signs, watch your posture so that you signal the same thing every time, too. The dog must understand your commands, otherwise they are meaningless. Put down time to learn them, with out the dog present, so that you are able to be consistent.
9. Do not risk your credibility, I mean, do not give a command unless you are sure you can get your dog to obey you. To call "Sit" to a stray 4-month puppy rushing after a cat, it is doomed to fail. You better either ignore or run after, but skip the command in that moment...
10. Nagging never does anything good, ONE command is enough, otherwise the dog will end up not obeying your order until you have cried over 20 times and is beet red in the face. That though, they learn faster than lightning!
11. Chose the right moment for the teaching new elements, it shall be calm and quiet and the dog should just have succeeded with something that you have already taught. Always be prepared to wait to the next session for the new element.
12. Allways, allways end with something fun, ad fun is everything that is easy! Do something the dog knows well and can handle. Repeat with variety and imagination. A session shall mostly consist of exercises the dog know well and will succeed in.
13. Never become angry, if you feel bad, or you feel discomfort your dog will notice. It is better to not train at all than to start a training session that you don´t know will be a success.
14. Never punish the dog, it do not understand it. It´s NEVER your dog that does it wrong, it´s you that are not clear enough or who are forcing it too fast. However, you can say "no" to the dog when it plans to violate one of your commands, but then you have to be fast and able to read their dog! Would it constantly violate your commands before given a "Jump & play" command, you might be a bit to slow with the liberating command or not sufficiently consistent in your training.
15. Reward, reward, praise, praise and encourage. The surest way to success is to strengthen when the dog is doing right and attract it to do the right thing over and over again!
1. First of all exercise in short sessions, better little and often than long and infrequent. 2-5 minutes, 2-4 times per day is good. That´s a rule not just for puppies it also applies to the adult dog!
2. Take it easy, one shall always be ready to take both one and two steps backwards in training!
3. The dog never ever fails! If the dog doesn´t do what you wish it to or ask for, you have probably rushed too fast and you must start over.
4. Plan your training so that the dog allways will succeed. Make it super easy and you will be able to prise your dog, and by be able to show appreciation and reward it you make your dog more willing to learn and both of you will feel more positive and looking forward to the next session.
5. Your dog should be as eager and happy when leaving the session as it was to go there. It doesn´t matter wether it´s muscle build up or brain exercises - make it short and often and repeat - that´s the way to do it. Think of how you your self learn the best way? Is it by doing it in short parts and doing it correct or by long exhausting lessons and were you get to know what you do wrong?
6. Never hesitate, correct immediately, do not stand and think for a moment. To be able to correct your dog, you have to have a game plan for your training and every move in small bits and parts.
7. Be consistent and make sure that your orders are always accompanied. If you dog are allowed to ignore/fail once - it will interpret that your commands does not always have to be obeyed.
8. Use the same signals and signs, watch your posture so that you signal the same thing every time, too. The dog must understand your commands, otherwise they are meaningless. Put down time to learn them, with out the dog present, so that you are able to be consistent.
9. Do not risk your credibility, I mean, do not give a command unless you are sure you can get your dog to obey you. To call "Sit" to a stray 4-month puppy rushing after a cat, it is doomed to fail. You better either ignore or run after, but skip the command in that moment...
10. Nagging never does anything good, ONE command is enough, otherwise the dog will end up not obeying your order until you have cried over 20 times and is beet red in the face. That though, they learn faster than lightning!
11. Chose the right moment for the teaching new elements, it shall be calm and quiet and the dog should just have succeeded with something that you have already taught. Always be prepared to wait to the next session for the new element.
12. Allways, allways end with something fun, ad fun is everything that is easy! Do something the dog knows well and can handle. Repeat with variety and imagination. A session shall mostly consist of exercises the dog know well and will succeed in.
13. Never become angry, if you feel bad, or you feel discomfort your dog will notice. It is better to not train at all than to start a training session that you don´t know will be a success.
14. Never punish the dog, it do not understand it. It´s NEVER your dog that does it wrong, it´s you that are not clear enough or who are forcing it too fast. However, you can say "no" to the dog when it plans to violate one of your commands, but then you have to be fast and able to read their dog! Would it constantly violate your commands before given a "Jump & play" command, you might be a bit to slow with the liberating command or not sufficiently consistent in your training.
15. Reward, reward, praise, praise and encourage. The surest way to success is to strengthen when the dog is doing right and attract it to do the right thing over and over again!
ComprEssed lessOn in retrievinG
Here comes a short version with the basics of the retrieving. For more details, please ask us to explain!
I work on three parallel projects during the basic exercises. Three different parts that contain different blocks. In addition to these, I usually choose to exclude to playing tugging with toys during the start-up. I let the dog return to that kind of play as soon as it has grasped the delivery. When it knows what to do, you can definitely reward with toys and play tug. However, never play tug with the “retrieved object” itself. (Why, because a real rabit will go into pieces and though the dog will learn what and when it is okay, with time, but it is so un necessary to play tug with the work. Play tug with another object instead). However, the retrieved object can definitely be used as a reward as an explosive retrieve, ie as soon as the dog has left the "object" in your hand you throw it again. Later on int the training "flying / objects in the air" will mean - SIT! But until then, it works just fine with explosive rewarding. (Even after the dog has learned to sit on objects in the air or gunshot, you will be able to use the explosive retrieve after a successful delivery. Most dogs learn what they have to do first, to be rewarded with an exlposive very quickly).
1. Gripping / delivering
2. Out
3. Summoning
Subjects
Suggestions for objects to work with, besides the ones you really want to practice are:
• Empty toilet roll
• Roller (roller for painting), it is also available in different sizes
• Puppy dummy filled with wadding
• Terry socks
• thick socks
• Rope toy with two knots
• Wooden stick
• A pine cone
What is important is that the object is construated so that it;
- does not attract your dog to chew on it.
- that it is easy to lift.
- that it is easy for you to hold onto, even when the dog is gripping. So it must either be hollow or long enough that both you and the dog will have space to hold at the same time. This is so that you do not have to pick up the object from the floor every time the dog drops or releases it and because it facilitates the gripping tremendously. Keep in mind that the dog usually wants to gripp where the scent of your hand is, so roll the object between your hands in the middle or rub it with a treat or food scent in the middle (keep in mind that food can attract chewing, but during the learning period I ignore that as long as the object "lasts" during practice).
We begin with Gripping / delivery
Here we use the dog's interest in opening his mouth and trying to take a bite of something edible. The important thing here is to use something really tasty, so tasty that it will both be willing to open its mouth. But also so tasty that it will be willing to switch the object fot the edible thing. If it does not want the treat, then this method is quite useless. There are many other methods avaliable, but this is the one I have succeded with best with this far. But before we continue you have to concider this:
What kind of dog are you working with?
Is it a dog that love to play with objects? Does it jump of joy if you throw something that it can follow? Does it play with the object for a long time or just for a short while? Does it come close to you in the game or does it play at a distance? Does it want things itselves and puts them on a pile or does it invite you into the game? Isn't it interested in toys at all? What does it like to eat? What is obsessed with? Is there something you haven't tried yet that might make your dog go "wild"? Is it a dog that need a lot of support, is insecure and proximity? Is it a dog that is self-contained walking at a distance infront of you or after you, on the walk. How far away does it go from you when you are at home? What distance does it have if you go to a new place/area? Does it spontaneously seek eye contact or does it avoid looking you in the eye? Does it stare at you or ask for contact?
All of this gives you information on how to get started and where you will encounter problems in your retrieveing. We can take some of my dogs as examples:
Dog A was scared, cautious and had had bad experiences of men. I happily carried things around, but put everything in its basket or three meters away from me. It spontaneously jumps into the lake and retrieves. Carries around on one dried deer leg for three years, not ever chewing on it. Do not chew on chewing bones, but eat all my shoes. I tried for 8 years without success to make this dog to deliver to my hand. But it was not until we started tracking we found a solution. When he stood in front of me, and I came up from behind and he had to replace the completely useless wooden stick for a treat, and he knew there were several more sticks to come. All of a sudden he could put everything in my hand! That gave me something to think about... That I was close all the time, but behind him and that the wooden sticks themselves were worthless to him made all the difference. In other words, a dog this was a dog who wants to own and also has fears and insecurety.
Dog B was disinterested in everything that was thrown. Liked to track game but did not carry. Could run after the object in the throw, but that was it. It never wanted to play fetch, it would just run after the object. Not even the rabbit that went up in front of its nose pursued this dog. Scared of metal, as it stood near a falling fence section of metal and got stuck with a paw under it. Though it did not hurt it self, the memory of this experience as a 10 week old puppy, made metal a huge obstacle. Walked spontaneously behind the leg from the age of 8 weeks. Was always dragging behind, but never far away. In other words, a dog with no interest in objects or really a dog who think of objects as if I or someone else owns them objects and does not dare to take our things…. Does not "collect or hoard" things. And want to please...
Dog C who really did not see objects as something that could hold any value in them self. This dog happily played with toys on its own, it preffered empty toilet rolls and thin shawls. People had only a few purposes in this dogs life, the could serve food, open and close the door and otherwise they could possibly be good to have around as warming if the dog was cold or help it to scrath if the back was itching. Food was moderately interesting... So we had to proceed like this, you will only be feed if you collaborate. Otherwise you will starve. It required smoked salmon, pate and delicacies to make her see any real use for humans at all. From there we could start building a connection and a point in collaboration. If she had been a dog that was outdoorsy and energetic, we could have used that as a part of teambuilding, but this one could go for three days if with out need of need of a "bathroom" if it was raining. So that road was "closed" so to speak. This was obviously a dog that did not need us and hence had zero will to please.
The two positions
where we begin the work
1. Sitting / standing opposite you - in other words picking up on command. It is an exercise where the dog must constantly take your precense into account. Why, well many dogs feel that they have a support, a safety or a brake behind the buttocks, when sitting down. Thje dog will be calmer, more stable and have fewer choices or alternative solutions when sitting down. Works great on dogs who want to keep or own the item. It becomes aware that you are there right from the start and thus is given fewer options. It is the position that also provides the most support and security for an unsecure dog.
2. Sitting / standing next to or a bit away from you or picking up on direction is good for the dog who does not want or own the item itself. The dog is put under less pressure, but also less secure.
It is a bit contradictory and not quite easy to choose, because even if a dog wants to keep things, and it may need freedom and a dog who is afraid and have problems with pressure and closeness, may still need the support that closeness entails. It is important to look at the dog and try things out. With small puppies we always start with them sitting opposite us. We both sit down and work from a sitting posistion.
The gripping
is taught in three steps.
Step 1 - Open your mouth and take the item in your mouth
The next step is gripping. With the puppy sitting in front of me, a toy in the right hand and a candy behind the toy in the left hand, I lure the puppy to open his mouth to either catch the toy or to sniff the candy, when it takes the toy in my mouth I click and give the candy. It will then spontaneously spit out the toy, which I still hold with my right hand, and I thus receive a delivery on the purchase. In this way, I can get the puppy to choose to grab an object that I sometimes touch, sometimes have still, then hold out to the side (and eventually put on the ground between us and then in front of us). At the same time as I practice the puppy to leave the item to get the reward.
Step 2 - the Nose push
As soon as the puppy grabs an object a few times, we switch to practicing "the nose push". That puppy to get a treat should push its nose against my open palm. This usually takes 3 * 2 repetitions for the puppy to understand.
Step 3 - Gripping and nose push
And then we can practice "gripping, delivery and nose pushing" in a chained reaction. Attract the puppy to grab, when it grabs ask the nose push for areward. This step takes longer and you often go back to a pure gripping, a pure push in a few turns / days before the puppy will be seeing the context.
The three basic positions in gripping and delivery
When the dog see the context in the series of delivery above one can begin to switch positions.
1. Sitting opposite you
2. Standing opposite you
3. Sitting side by side
The distance then varies depending on how sensitive the dog is to your presence is and how much choice it needs or can handle.
Then I divide these three basics positions into, several different smaller steps. I often work with all of these three from the beginning and jump between these depending on what the dog needs at the moment.
a) Sitting opposite you, at an incredibly short distance or with a small dog, you can start with it in your lap. Why, the many dogs feel that they have a support, a safety or a brake behind the buttocks, when sitting down. It will be calmer, more stable and fewer choices or alternative solutions when sitting down.
b) Sitting opposite you but with the object beside you. The dog must make an active choice and go towards the object but you can still hold it as if you are sitting opposite it.
c) Standing opposite you, short distance but with the opportunity to walk and back from the start. The dog gets more options and the press to follow your suggestions is less, it is offered more free choices simply.
d) Sitting opposite you but at slightly greater distance (1-2 meters). Standing opposite you but at slightly greater distance (1-2) meters.
e) Sitting opposite you but at a slightly greater distance (1-2 meters) but with the object on the ground / floor between you.
f) Standing opposite you but at slightly greater distance (1-2) meters but with the object on the ground / floor between you.
g) Sitting opposite you but with the object on the ground beside you.
h) Sitting next to you with the object in your hand.
i) Sitting next to you with the object on the ground in front of the dog's feet.
j) Sitting next to you with the object on the ground in front of you (1-2 meters).
k) Sitting next to you with the object on the ground in front of you (1-200 meters).
l) Sitting at a distance but between you and the object
m) Standing at a distance with between you and the object
n) Sitting at a distance
Products used:
Treats
· a toy
· A dummy
· a carpet
· An open area (with fence along one side for a puppy / uneducated dog)
Finding the goal
· Place a rug at the end of the area / field, along the fence.
· Take the puppy with you to the mat, place two treats on it.
· Lead it or walk away from the carpet, about 1.5 meters, along the fence.
· Send it to the carpet with the command "Back" or "Out". (Whichever word you prefer is up to you, I use Back to go backwards and Out for this command).
· With a small puppy you continue at the same distance. With an older one, you increase the distance by 1-1.5 meters each time for about 4-6 times.
· You are not interested in getting the item, you just want the dog to run straight for something!
Or if you can help someone ...
It is most easily practiced in an empty room along the wall or in a smaller enclosure.
· Keep the dog with you, with your hand in front of the book. Have someone bring a bowl with some food in, let the dog taste and then move the bowl along the fence away from the dog. First just a little bit. Release the dog and give command as it runs toward the bowl. Repeat with longer and longer distances along the wall / fence.
· Now we turn the steak. Put the bowl of reward in the corner and walk the dog from it. First just a few meters, put the dog down and let it run OUT! Back to the food. Redo and increase the distance.
· When the dog is absolutely sure that there is always a bowl of candy in the same corner, place the command OUT!
· Now you remove the bowl itself. Now it is enough to put candy / food in the corner and it runs there when you say OUT.
· Add the dog to sit still. You hold your right hand open and point parallel to the dog's head toward the candy. The dog should hold his head against your hand and calmly make eye contact with the target. Practice and
Notice Then I train the world's shortest summons. I have the dog sitting in front of me, taking a step back while luring it with candy and calling in. If the puppy comes to hand, it will receive a reward. If it chooses to come and its except make eye contact, it also receives a lot of praise. Pretty soon you can start luring it to take a step past you and turn up on your left. Double reward, first it comes on the notice and then because it turns on your left side. Then you work with summons in all positions that you will eventually practice retrieval from:
a) Sitting opposite you, at an incredibly short distance
b) Sitting opposite you but a little oblique
c) Standing opposite you, short distance
d) Sitting opposite you but at slightly greater distance (1-2 meters).
e) Standing opposite you but at slightly greater distance (1-2) meters.
f) Sitting opposite you but at slightly greater distance (4-5 meters)
g) Standing opposite you but at slightly greater distance (4-5) meters
h) Sitting opposite you but with the side to you
i) Sitting next to you with your back to you
j) Sitting next to you back to back
k) Sitting next to but a little farther 1-2 meters).
l) Sitting next to increase the lateral distance (1-200 meters).
m) Sitting at a distance
n) Standing at a distance
o) Restart from the beginning and add interruptions and temptations
Problem solving
I will willingly admit that I usually come to a phase of sauce eventually when the dog questions if it is really worth the candy, when we come to game that is scary or disgusting or a material it does not like, like a bucket box like landati dog shit 🙈🙈🙈 It are different for different dogs. In this phase, it is important to choose to work with an object or game that is not important for your dog's success. If the metal is braking, switch to something in metal that will get rid of if the dog succeeds. Like a pot lid or a spoon. If it is smelly game then choose a species that will get rid of you if the dog will actually fetch in the future, like ferret or rat, as an example. Why, yes, because if you choose to fight for something that is important to you, you will have a completely different attitude and approach during work than if it is something that does not have value to you. Do you need help in this phase, please hear me, I do not write it here because then this will be a whole book!
Small dictionary Mop report - reward for successful delivery by throwing the object directly and the dog gets exploded "mop" without sitting or being guided in any way. ALWAYS thrown backwards, ie behind you or to the side. So that the dog will not slow down the speed towards you, but have hope to continue at full speed in the same line as it was heading towards you!
I work on three parallel projects during the basic exercises. Three different parts that contain different blocks. In addition to these, I usually choose to exclude to playing tugging with toys during the start-up. I let the dog return to that kind of play as soon as it has grasped the delivery. When it knows what to do, you can definitely reward with toys and play tug. However, never play tug with the “retrieved object” itself. (Why, because a real rabit will go into pieces and though the dog will learn what and when it is okay, with time, but it is so un necessary to play tug with the work. Play tug with another object instead). However, the retrieved object can definitely be used as a reward as an explosive retrieve, ie as soon as the dog has left the "object" in your hand you throw it again. Later on int the training "flying / objects in the air" will mean - SIT! But until then, it works just fine with explosive rewarding. (Even after the dog has learned to sit on objects in the air or gunshot, you will be able to use the explosive retrieve after a successful delivery. Most dogs learn what they have to do first, to be rewarded with an exlposive very quickly).
1. Gripping / delivering
2. Out
3. Summoning
Subjects
Suggestions for objects to work with, besides the ones you really want to practice are:
• Empty toilet roll
• Roller (roller for painting), it is also available in different sizes
• Puppy dummy filled with wadding
• Terry socks
• thick socks
• Rope toy with two knots
• Wooden stick
• A pine cone
What is important is that the object is construated so that it;
- does not attract your dog to chew on it.
- that it is easy to lift.
- that it is easy for you to hold onto, even when the dog is gripping. So it must either be hollow or long enough that both you and the dog will have space to hold at the same time. This is so that you do not have to pick up the object from the floor every time the dog drops or releases it and because it facilitates the gripping tremendously. Keep in mind that the dog usually wants to gripp where the scent of your hand is, so roll the object between your hands in the middle or rub it with a treat or food scent in the middle (keep in mind that food can attract chewing, but during the learning period I ignore that as long as the object "lasts" during practice).
We begin with Gripping / delivery
Here we use the dog's interest in opening his mouth and trying to take a bite of something edible. The important thing here is to use something really tasty, so tasty that it will both be willing to open its mouth. But also so tasty that it will be willing to switch the object fot the edible thing. If it does not want the treat, then this method is quite useless. There are many other methods avaliable, but this is the one I have succeded with best with this far. But before we continue you have to concider this:
What kind of dog are you working with?
Is it a dog that love to play with objects? Does it jump of joy if you throw something that it can follow? Does it play with the object for a long time or just for a short while? Does it come close to you in the game or does it play at a distance? Does it want things itselves and puts them on a pile or does it invite you into the game? Isn't it interested in toys at all? What does it like to eat? What is obsessed with? Is there something you haven't tried yet that might make your dog go "wild"? Is it a dog that need a lot of support, is insecure and proximity? Is it a dog that is self-contained walking at a distance infront of you or after you, on the walk. How far away does it go from you when you are at home? What distance does it have if you go to a new place/area? Does it spontaneously seek eye contact or does it avoid looking you in the eye? Does it stare at you or ask for contact?
All of this gives you information on how to get started and where you will encounter problems in your retrieveing. We can take some of my dogs as examples:
Dog A was scared, cautious and had had bad experiences of men. I happily carried things around, but put everything in its basket or three meters away from me. It spontaneously jumps into the lake and retrieves. Carries around on one dried deer leg for three years, not ever chewing on it. Do not chew on chewing bones, but eat all my shoes. I tried for 8 years without success to make this dog to deliver to my hand. But it was not until we started tracking we found a solution. When he stood in front of me, and I came up from behind and he had to replace the completely useless wooden stick for a treat, and he knew there were several more sticks to come. All of a sudden he could put everything in my hand! That gave me something to think about... That I was close all the time, but behind him and that the wooden sticks themselves were worthless to him made all the difference. In other words, a dog this was a dog who wants to own and also has fears and insecurety.
Dog B was disinterested in everything that was thrown. Liked to track game but did not carry. Could run after the object in the throw, but that was it. It never wanted to play fetch, it would just run after the object. Not even the rabbit that went up in front of its nose pursued this dog. Scared of metal, as it stood near a falling fence section of metal and got stuck with a paw under it. Though it did not hurt it self, the memory of this experience as a 10 week old puppy, made metal a huge obstacle. Walked spontaneously behind the leg from the age of 8 weeks. Was always dragging behind, but never far away. In other words, a dog with no interest in objects or really a dog who think of objects as if I or someone else owns them objects and does not dare to take our things…. Does not "collect or hoard" things. And want to please...
Dog C who really did not see objects as something that could hold any value in them self. This dog happily played with toys on its own, it preffered empty toilet rolls and thin shawls. People had only a few purposes in this dogs life, the could serve food, open and close the door and otherwise they could possibly be good to have around as warming if the dog was cold or help it to scrath if the back was itching. Food was moderately interesting... So we had to proceed like this, you will only be feed if you collaborate. Otherwise you will starve. It required smoked salmon, pate and delicacies to make her see any real use for humans at all. From there we could start building a connection and a point in collaboration. If she had been a dog that was outdoorsy and energetic, we could have used that as a part of teambuilding, but this one could go for three days if with out need of need of a "bathroom" if it was raining. So that road was "closed" so to speak. This was obviously a dog that did not need us and hence had zero will to please.
The two positions
where we begin the work
1. Sitting / standing opposite you - in other words picking up on command. It is an exercise where the dog must constantly take your precense into account. Why, well many dogs feel that they have a support, a safety or a brake behind the buttocks, when sitting down. Thje dog will be calmer, more stable and have fewer choices or alternative solutions when sitting down. Works great on dogs who want to keep or own the item. It becomes aware that you are there right from the start and thus is given fewer options. It is the position that also provides the most support and security for an unsecure dog.
2. Sitting / standing next to or a bit away from you or picking up on direction is good for the dog who does not want or own the item itself. The dog is put under less pressure, but also less secure.
It is a bit contradictory and not quite easy to choose, because even if a dog wants to keep things, and it may need freedom and a dog who is afraid and have problems with pressure and closeness, may still need the support that closeness entails. It is important to look at the dog and try things out. With small puppies we always start with them sitting opposite us. We both sit down and work from a sitting posistion.
The gripping
is taught in three steps.
Step 1 - Open your mouth and take the item in your mouth
The next step is gripping. With the puppy sitting in front of me, a toy in the right hand and a candy behind the toy in the left hand, I lure the puppy to open his mouth to either catch the toy or to sniff the candy, when it takes the toy in my mouth I click and give the candy. It will then spontaneously spit out the toy, which I still hold with my right hand, and I thus receive a delivery on the purchase. In this way, I can get the puppy to choose to grab an object that I sometimes touch, sometimes have still, then hold out to the side (and eventually put on the ground between us and then in front of us). At the same time as I practice the puppy to leave the item to get the reward.
Step 2 - the Nose push
As soon as the puppy grabs an object a few times, we switch to practicing "the nose push". That puppy to get a treat should push its nose against my open palm. This usually takes 3 * 2 repetitions for the puppy to understand.
Step 3 - Gripping and nose push
And then we can practice "gripping, delivery and nose pushing" in a chained reaction. Attract the puppy to grab, when it grabs ask the nose push for areward. This step takes longer and you often go back to a pure gripping, a pure push in a few turns / days before the puppy will be seeing the context.
The three basic positions in gripping and delivery
When the dog see the context in the series of delivery above one can begin to switch positions.
1. Sitting opposite you
2. Standing opposite you
3. Sitting side by side
The distance then varies depending on how sensitive the dog is to your presence is and how much choice it needs or can handle.
Then I divide these three basics positions into, several different smaller steps. I often work with all of these three from the beginning and jump between these depending on what the dog needs at the moment.
a) Sitting opposite you, at an incredibly short distance or with a small dog, you can start with it in your lap. Why, the many dogs feel that they have a support, a safety or a brake behind the buttocks, when sitting down. It will be calmer, more stable and fewer choices or alternative solutions when sitting down.
b) Sitting opposite you but with the object beside you. The dog must make an active choice and go towards the object but you can still hold it as if you are sitting opposite it.
c) Standing opposite you, short distance but with the opportunity to walk and back from the start. The dog gets more options and the press to follow your suggestions is less, it is offered more free choices simply.
d) Sitting opposite you but at slightly greater distance (1-2 meters). Standing opposite you but at slightly greater distance (1-2) meters.
e) Sitting opposite you but at a slightly greater distance (1-2 meters) but with the object on the ground / floor between you.
f) Standing opposite you but at slightly greater distance (1-2) meters but with the object on the ground / floor between you.
g) Sitting opposite you but with the object on the ground beside you.
h) Sitting next to you with the object in your hand.
i) Sitting next to you with the object on the ground in front of the dog's feet.
j) Sitting next to you with the object on the ground in front of you (1-2 meters).
k) Sitting next to you with the object on the ground in front of you (1-200 meters).
l) Sitting at a distance but between you and the object
m) Standing at a distance with between you and the object
n) Sitting at a distance
Products used:
Treats
· a toy
· A dummy
· a carpet
· An open area (with fence along one side for a puppy / uneducated dog)
Finding the goal
· Place a rug at the end of the area / field, along the fence.
· Take the puppy with you to the mat, place two treats on it.
· Lead it or walk away from the carpet, about 1.5 meters, along the fence.
· Send it to the carpet with the command "Back" or "Out". (Whichever word you prefer is up to you, I use Back to go backwards and Out for this command).
· With a small puppy you continue at the same distance. With an older one, you increase the distance by 1-1.5 meters each time for about 4-6 times.
· You are not interested in getting the item, you just want the dog to run straight for something!
Or if you can help someone ...
It is most easily practiced in an empty room along the wall or in a smaller enclosure.
· Keep the dog with you, with your hand in front of the book. Have someone bring a bowl with some food in, let the dog taste and then move the bowl along the fence away from the dog. First just a little bit. Release the dog and give command as it runs toward the bowl. Repeat with longer and longer distances along the wall / fence.
· Now we turn the steak. Put the bowl of reward in the corner and walk the dog from it. First just a few meters, put the dog down and let it run OUT! Back to the food. Redo and increase the distance.
· When the dog is absolutely sure that there is always a bowl of candy in the same corner, place the command OUT!
· Now you remove the bowl itself. Now it is enough to put candy / food in the corner and it runs there when you say OUT.
· Add the dog to sit still. You hold your right hand open and point parallel to the dog's head toward the candy. The dog should hold his head against your hand and calmly make eye contact with the target. Practice and
Notice Then I train the world's shortest summons. I have the dog sitting in front of me, taking a step back while luring it with candy and calling in. If the puppy comes to hand, it will receive a reward. If it chooses to come and its except make eye contact, it also receives a lot of praise. Pretty soon you can start luring it to take a step past you and turn up on your left. Double reward, first it comes on the notice and then because it turns on your left side. Then you work with summons in all positions that you will eventually practice retrieval from:
a) Sitting opposite you, at an incredibly short distance
b) Sitting opposite you but a little oblique
c) Standing opposite you, short distance
d) Sitting opposite you but at slightly greater distance (1-2 meters).
e) Standing opposite you but at slightly greater distance (1-2) meters.
f) Sitting opposite you but at slightly greater distance (4-5 meters)
g) Standing opposite you but at slightly greater distance (4-5) meters
h) Sitting opposite you but with the side to you
i) Sitting next to you with your back to you
j) Sitting next to you back to back
k) Sitting next to but a little farther 1-2 meters).
l) Sitting next to increase the lateral distance (1-200 meters).
m) Sitting at a distance
n) Standing at a distance
o) Restart from the beginning and add interruptions and temptations
Problem solving
I will willingly admit that I usually come to a phase of sauce eventually when the dog questions if it is really worth the candy, when we come to game that is scary or disgusting or a material it does not like, like a bucket box like landati dog shit 🙈🙈🙈 It are different for different dogs. In this phase, it is important to choose to work with an object or game that is not important for your dog's success. If the metal is braking, switch to something in metal that will get rid of if the dog succeeds. Like a pot lid or a spoon. If it is smelly game then choose a species that will get rid of you if the dog will actually fetch in the future, like ferret or rat, as an example. Why, yes, because if you choose to fight for something that is important to you, you will have a completely different attitude and approach during work than if it is something that does not have value to you. Do you need help in this phase, please hear me, I do not write it here because then this will be a whole book!
Small dictionary Mop report - reward for successful delivery by throwing the object directly and the dog gets exploded "mop" without sitting or being guided in any way. ALWAYS thrown backwards, ie behind you or to the side. So that the dog will not slow down the speed towards you, but have hope to continue at full speed in the same line as it was heading towards you!
